(1) Drill and countersink the hole for mounting the ladder to the wall

(2) Search out any protruding nail heads and countersink them with a nailset.

(3) After the first sanding, check to see if any nails are now protruding, and, if so, countersink them.

(4) Use 12 or 16 HDG finishing nails and countersink them with a nail set.

(5) It's helpful to first pre-drill a small hole in the wood where you want to countersink the brass screws.

(6) To help prevent recurrence, countersink the nails and swab the holes with a water repellent.

(7) Drill and countersink screw holes for mounting screws.

(8) Use a nail punch to countersink all nail heads approximately 1/8 ÔÇÿbelow the wood surface.ÔÇÖ

(9) Depending on how far the bolts stick out beyond the boards, we either countersink the nuts or wrap two layers of duct tape over the ends of the bolts to prevent damage to the greenhouse film.

(10) First, countersink the nails and swab the holes with a water repellent.

(11) Fasten the bottom of each brace with a 6-inch machine bolt and countersink the washer and nut.

(12) When applying directly over an old floor, countersink any protruding nails and sand off any paint, wax, or varnish that might affect the adhering ability of the adhesive.

(13) You can even countersink and cover the screws with a dab of caulk.

(14) Drill four 3/16-inch clearance holes in each rib before countersinking the top surface to bring the screw head flush.

(15) Then secure with 1-inch drywall screws, making sure they are countersunk .

(16) Flat heads are always countersunk or rest flush with the surface.

(17) I used regular wood screws and countersunk them in the PVC to allow a flush surface.

(18) Nail heads should be flush with the surface, but not countersunk as it can cause the backer board to crack or break.

(19) Just get plenty of screws in and make sure that they are countersunk and that they hit the studs.

(20) There is a second layer of plexi to attach to this, so I countersunk the screwheads so they were flush